Argireline
SNARE-modulating hexapeptide (cosmetic ingredient)
Status
Cosmetic ingredient
A cosmetic ingredient, not an approved drug; the US Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel found acetyl hexapeptide-8 amide safe in cosmetics at up to 0.005% but the data insufficient to support safety at higher concentrations.
Evidence
Preliminary
A handful of small trials, the largest a 4-week placebo-controlled study of 60 people; no large independent studies.
Argireline (acetyl hexapeptide-8) is a six-amino-acid peptide copied from the nerve protein SNAP-25 and used in anti-wrinkle creams to mimic, topically, the muscle-relaxing effect of botulinum toxin. It is a cosmetic ingredient with only small supporting trials.
Structure
6 residuesPoint at a bead, or focus the chain and use the arrow keys, to name it. Pick a chemistry to highlight it.
Sequence as text
Ac-E-E-M-Q-R-R-NH2
What it is used for
- Expression lines and wrinkles, especially around the eyes, in small trials (studied)
- Topical alternative to botulinum toxin injections (claimed, unproven)
How it works
Argireline mimics the N-terminal end of SNAP-25, one of the SNARE proteins that nerve endings use to release neurotransmitters. In lab studies it competes with SNAP-25 and destabilises the SNARE complex, reducing calcium-triggered release of neurotransmitters, similar in principle to how botulinum toxins act on the same machinery. The aim is to relax the muscle contractions that form expression lines. It is very water-soluble and studies measuring it directly found minimal skin penetration.
How strong the evidence is
Preliminary
In the original 2002 study, an emulsion containing 10% Argireline reduced wrinkle depth by up to 30% after 30 days in healthy women (Blanes-Mira 2002). A randomised placebo-controlled trial in 60 Chinese adults (Wang 2013; 3:1 allocation, eye area, twice daily for 4 weeks) reported subjective anti-wrinkle efficacy of 48.9% versus 0% with placebo. A 2023 double-blind trial in 21 women found smaller gains than palmitoyl pentapeptide-4. The 10% concentration used in the 2002 study is far above the 0.005% the CIR panel assessed as safe.
Risks and side effects
- Safety is established only up to 0.005% in leave-on cosmetics; the CIR panel found data insufficient for higher concentrations such as the 10% used in the original study.
- Irritation and sensitisation tests were done at low concentrations (around 0.05%); comparable data at 10% are lacking.
- Trial effects were modest and short-term (4 to 8 weeks), with largely subjective or image-based measures.
Regulatory status
Status by country
| Jurisdiction | Status | Source |
|---|---|---|
| USUnited States | Cosmetic ingredient | Source 4 |
| EUEuropean Union | Cosmetic ingredient | Source 9 |
| UKUnited Kingdom | No authorised medicine | Source 10 |
| AUAustralia | No authorised medicine | Source 11 |
| CACanada | No authorised medicine | Source 12 |
Sources
- 01PubChem Compound Summary: Argireline acetate (Ac-EEMQRR-NH2) (CID 11228338)(opens the source in a new tab)
- 02A synthetic hexapeptide (Argireline) with antiwrinkle activity(opens the source in a new tab)
- 03The anti-wrinkle efficacy of argireline, a synthetic hexapeptide, in Chinese subjects: a randomized, placebo-controlled study(opens the source in a new tab)
- 04Safety Assessment of Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 Amide as Used in Cosmetics(opens the source in a new tab)
- 05Double-blind, Randomized Trial on the Effectiveness of Acetylhexapeptide-3 Cream and Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 Cream for Crow's Feet(opens the source in a new tab)
- 06UniProtKB P60880: Synaptosomal-associated protein 25 (SNAP25), human(opens the source in a new tab)
- 07Peptides and Growth Factors in Cosmetics: Are They Banned?(opens the source in a new tab)
- 08Is It a Cosmetic, a Drug, or Both? (Or Is It Soap?)(opens the source in a new tab)
- 09CosIng: ACETYL HEXAPEPTIDE-8(opens the source in a new tab)
- 10MHRA Products: active substances beginning with A(opens the source in a new tab)
- 11Australian Register of Therapeutic Goods (ARTG)(opens the source in a new tab)
- 12Drug Product Database online query(opens the source in a new tab)
Educational information, not medical advice. Talk to a licensed clinician before starting, stopping or changing any medicine.